Qilasaaz weaves the past into the present. We create clothing and interiors suspended in time. Hand embroidered by the women of Mahmudabad and Bilehra, we mostly use handspun and handloom fabrics, whether wool, silk or cotton.
Chikankari is perhaps the most famous embroidery technique from the region of Awadh. Although it began as white embroidery on white cotton, the technique has, over the generations, expanded to include needlework on many different fabrics. The process begins with designs carved on wooden blocks which are printed on the fabric. These patterns are used as the base for the embroidery work.
Kamdani, Muqaish or Baadla all refer to embroidery with metal thread. In the past, this thread was made of silver. gold or silver dipped in gold, and today is made of steel. Unlike Zardozi, this technique does not use fabric stretched on a frame and instead, embroidery is done without mounting the cloth but still according to a printed pattern.
Ordinarily, patchwork the world over is made with leftover fabric. Turki is a form of patchwork which involves deliberately cutting up expensive silks of different colors, and stitching the pieces together in set geometrical patterns to create a new piece of the cloth which can then be used to create a variety of garments.
Daraj is seam appliqué whereas Katau is simple appliqué work. This style of stitching can only be done on very fine fabric. For Daraj work, two pieces of fabric, which are to be stitched together, are first cut with a design in mind. The pieces are then stitched together to transform the seam into the pattern and thus construct what is effectively an invisible seam.
Zardozi means embroidering with gold thread. The fabric is tightly stretched over a frame and usually embroidered by men. There is a vast repertoire of different stitches that are employed in creating designs. One of the striking and difficult techniques burnt jaali (mesh) work, which involves stamping the fabric with a design and then burning out the shape of the design with a hot needle and embroidering a mesh in its place.